NOTES: Prepare the spaghetti squash well ahead of time. (The instructions follow the recipe.) The batter keeps well for up to 5 days if stored in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator.
To keep the pancakes warm, transfer them to a rack on a baking tray, and place the tray in a 200˚F oven until serving time. (The rack keeps them crisp.)
2 cups cooked spaghetti squash (instructions below) 1 cup minced onion ¼ cup unbleached all-purpose flour or rice flour ½ teaspoon salt (scant measure) 4 large eggs Nonstick spray for the pan A little unsalted butter for the pan (optional)
OPTIONAL TOPPINGS Sour cream or yogurt Minced parsley
Place the cooked squash in a medium-sized bowl and separate the strands by combing through them with a fork. Continue to use the fork to mix in the onion, flour, and salt, and then to beat in the eggs.
Place a skillet or griddle over medium heat. After a minute or two, spray it lightly with nonstick spray, and, if you like, melt in a little butter for a richer flavor. When the cooking surface is hot enough to sizzle a bread crumb, use a ¼-cup measure with a handle to scoop batter into the hot pan.
Cook the pancakes for a good 8 to 10 minutes on each side–until truly golden. (Unlike cakier pancakes, which toughen when turned repeatedly from side to side, these can be turned more than once, if necessary, without compromising their texture.) Get them really well-done on the outside, and you will have an exquisite chewy-crisp result. Serve hot or warm–plain, or with any of the optional toppings.
Yield: 4 servings ~
To prepare spaghetti squash for this recipe:
1 (3-pound) spaghetti squash
Preheat the oven to 350˚F. Cut the squash in half lengthwise, and scrape out the seeds.
Bake the halves facedown on a lightly oiled tray for about 30 minutes, or until the skin can be just barely pierced with a fork. (It should be tender, but not too soft.)
Remove from the oven, and cool to room temperature. Scoop out the flesh, place it in a strainer, and squeeze out enough of the juices to reduce its final volume to 2 packed cups.
A three-stage cooking process (same pan, no cleaning in between) allows each ingredient to reach optimal texture and maximum flavor.
2 to 3 tablespoons canola or peanut oil 16 medium shiitake mushrooms (about 10 ounces), stemmed and very thinly sliced 2 medium jalapeños, cut into thin rounds ¼ teaspoon salt 6 cups cut green cabbage (1-inch “squares”) 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 tablespoon cider vinegar 1½ teaspoons Chinese-style dark sesame oil (plus extra) 1½ coarsely chopped onions (¾-inch “squares”) 10 ounces very firm tofu
Place a large, deep skillet over medium heat. After about a minute, add 1 tablespoon of the oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the mushrooms and stir-fry over medium-high heat for 5 minutes. Stir in the jalapeños, plus 1/8 teaspoon of the salt, and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 to 8 minutes longer, or until the mushrooms are very limp.
Push the mushrooms and jalapeños to one side of the pan, then add another tablespoon of oil to the exposed surface, followed by the cabbage and another 1/8 teaspoon of the salt.
Keeping the heat medium-high, stir-fry the cabbage only for about 3 minutes, then mix in the sidelined mushrooms and jalapeños. Spread out the mixture, cover the pan, and let it steam (okay if it scorches slightly) for about 5 minutes. Scrape the bottom of the pan and mix intermittently.
In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, vinegar, and sesame oil, then pour this in. Mix well, cover, and continue to cook over low heat for another 5 to 8 minutes, or until done to your liking. Transfer to a serving bowl and set aside.
Without cleaning it, return the pan to the stove over medium heat. Wait about a minute, then add a little oil and swirl to coat the pan. Turn up the heat to high and flash-cook the onions, shaking the pan, for only about 1 to 2 minutes, or until the onions become shiny and golden on the edges but are still crunchy. Add these to the cabbage mixture in the bowl.
Return the uncleaned pan to medium heat one more time, wait another minute, add another little bit of oil, and swirl to coat the pan. Add the tofu in a single layer (okay if touching) and cook undisturbed for about 5 minutes on each side, or until crisp and deep golden brown. Toss into the cabbage mixture and serve. Pass around the sesame oil, so people can add a little extra, if they wish.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings ~
Thin slices of beautifully contrasting ingredients are arranged in shallow layers on a plate and sprinkled with touches of extra flavor, texture and color. Serve this as an elegant first course for dinner, or as a main dish for lunch.
NOTES: You can cook the beats any way you prefer—by steaming, boiling, or roasting. Cut the pear and avocado just before using, so they won’t turn brown.
A few handfuls of very fresh arugula leaves 1 pound beets, cooked until tender, then peeled and thinly sliced 1 to 2 tablespoons roasted walnut oil or extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium firm-but-ripe avocado 1 tablespoon cider vinegar Salt, to taste (optional) 2 medium-sized perfectly ripe pears, in thin slices (peeling optional) 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice ¼ cup crumbled Roquefort or Gorgonzola cheese ½ cup minced walnuts, lightly toasted
OPTIONAL GARNISHES: Pomegranate seeds Dried cranberries (or minced fresh cranberries) Squeezable lemon wedges Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Scatter the arugula onto a medium-large serving platter, or on 4 or 5 individual plates.
Place the beet slices over the arugula. Drizzle the beets with oil.
Halve the avocado, then pit, peel, and cut it into long thin slices. Arrange these around the beets and immediately drizzle the avocado surfaces with vinegar to keep them from discoloring. Sprinkle very lightly with salt, if you desire.
Lay the pear slices on or around the avocado, then sprinkle everything with lemon juice.
Toss the crumbled cheese over the top and garnish with walnuts, pomegranate seeds, or cranberries, and a wedge of lemon. Serve immediately, passing around the pepper mill.
Yield: 4 to 5 servings ~
